Barbarian days : a surfing life
Finnegan, William2016
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Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, William Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia and Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. 'Barbarian Days' takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds as Finnegan shares his rich life stories.
Main title:
Barbarian days : a surfing life / William Finnegan.
Author:
Finnegan, William, author
Imprint:
London : Corsair, 2016.
Collation:
499 pages : illustrations (black and white) ; 20 cm
Notes:
Originally published: 2015.
ISBN:
9781472151414 (pbk)
Dewey class:
797.32092797.32920
LC class:
GV839.5
Local class:
797.32
Language:
English
BRN:
1508127